San Sebastián: Spain’s hidden gem
Nestled on Spain’s northern coast, San Sebastián (or Donostia as it’s known in Basque), is a coastal jewel in Spain’s Basque Country. With its picturesque bay, rich culinary scene, and vibrant culture, this charming city feels like a hidden gem for travelers seeking both relaxation and adventure. I’ve had the pleasure of immersing myself in all that San Sebastián has to offer two years in a row, and I’m excited to share my journey with you.
Things to do:
Monte Igueldo: San Sebastián’s Scenic Summit
When we visited San Sebastian in 2023 and 2024, I fell in love with the panoramic views on top of Monte Igueldo. It is my number one must-visit spot in all of San Sebastian. It stands proudly at the western end of the city, providing a striking contrast to the city’s urban landscape.
This iconic mountain offers more than just a stunning vantage point; it’s a rich blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and family-friendly fun Amusement park, which dates back to the 1920s. The amusement park features vintage rides and attractions, including a roller coaster.
The journey to the summit is an experience in itself. The most charming way to reach the top is by taking the funicular railway, which has been operating since 1912. The ride is brief but delightful, offering scenic glimpses of the city and bay as you ascend. You can also drive or take a taxi.
The summit also hosts a historic hotel and restaurant. The hotel offers a charming place to stay with unparalleled views, while the restaurant serves traditional Basque cuisine in a picturesque setting. Dining here is a unique experience, combining delicious food with the stunning backdrop of the city below.
Beaches in San Sebastián: Sun, Sand, and Surf in Basque Country
San Sebastián, renowned for its stunning coastline, offers some of the most beautiful beaches in Spain. Whether you’re a sun-seeker, a surfer, or just looking for a picturesque spot to relax, the city’s beaches provide a range of options.
La Concha Beach is the crown jewel of San Sebastián and arguably one of the most iconic city beaches in Europe. Its crescent-shaped bay, framed by lush hills and elegant cityscape, offers a postcard-perfect view. Located at the western end of La Concha Bay, Ondarreta Beach offers a more relaxed and family-friendly atmosphere. Situated in the Gros district, Zurriola Beach is known for its vibrant atmosphere and is a favorite among surfers.
Exploring Old Town
San Sebastián’s Old Town, or Parte Vieja, is a vibrant and historic district that captures the essence of this Basque city’s rich heritage. Nestled between the stunning La Concha Beach and the bustling city center, the Old Town is a maze of narrow streets brimming with cultural landmarks, traditional architecture, and gastronomic delights. Here is my must see list to help you navigate and enjoy this charming area.
- Plaza de la Constitución: This lively square is the heart of the Old Town. Originally used as a bullfighting ring, it’s now surrounded by colorful, balconied buildings that add to its picturesque charm. The square is a great place to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy a coffee or pintxos from one of the many nearby bars.
- Basilica of Santa María del Coro stands as a remarkable testament to the city’s rich historical and cultural heritage. This baroque church, with its stunning façade and intricately adorned interior, is a must-visit for anyone interested in architecture, history, or simply seeking a moment of tranquility amidst the bustling streets of the Old Town.
- The Cathedral of San Sebastián, officially known as the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd of San Sebastián (Catedral del Buen Pastor de San Sebastián), is a striking architectural landmark located in the heart of San Sebastián. Its neo-Gothic design, prominent location, and historical significance make it a key point of interest for visitors exploring this vibrant Basque city.
- Carrusel de San Sebastián has been a beloved fixture in the city for generations. Its history dates back to the early 20th century, when carousels were popular entertainment for children and families across Europe. The San Sebastián carousel was installed in the 1920s, adding a touch of whimsy and charm to the city’s landscape.
- Aquarium of San Sebastián is one of the city’s must-visit attractions, especially for families and marine life enthusiasts. We visited the aquarium on a rainy day. It is located at the edge of the harbor in the picturesque neighborhood of the Old Town, this aquarium is not only one of the oldest in Spain but also one of the most modern, thanks to its state-of-the-art exhibits. The real highlight of the Aquarium is the massive Oceanarium. This impressive tank, which holds over 1.8 million liters of water, allows you to walk through a 360-degree transparent tunnel surrounded by sharks, rays, and other marine creatures. It’s an immersive experience that makes you feel as if you’re truly walking on the ocean floor. The sight of a shark swimming overhead or a stingray gliding gracefully by is nothing short of mesmerizing.
Miramar Palace (Palacio de Miramar) is one of the most iconic landmarks in San Sebastián, offering a glimpse into the city’s aristocratic past. Perched on a hill overlooking La Concha Bay, the palace is surrounded by lush gardens and provides stunning views of the coastline. The palace was commissioned by Queen María Cristina of Spain in 1893 as a summer residence for the Spanish royal family. Designed by the English architect Selden Wornum, Miramar Palace was built in the English cottage style, blending harmoniously with its natural surroundings. The influence of British design reflects the queen’s fondness for English architecture, a trend that was popular among European aristocracy at the time.
The gardens of Miramar Palace are open to the public, making it a popular spot for both locals and tourists to enjoy leisurely walks, picnics, or simply to take in the panoramic views of the bay. The grounds are also used for cultural events, such as concerts and exhibitions, particularly during the summer months.
The palace’s location between La Concha and Ondarreta beaches makes it a perfect stop while exploring the coastal promenade. From the gardens, you can enjoy unobstructed views of the bay, Santa Clara Island, and the surrounding mountains, making it a favorite spot for photography.
The Wind Comb (Peine del Viento) is one of San Sebastián’s most famous and beloved landmarks, located at the western end of La Concha Bay, near the base of Monte Igueldo. This iconic sculpture is a powerful fusion of art and nature, created by the renowned Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida in collaboration with architect Luis Peña Ganchegui.
The Wind Comb consists of three large steel sculptures embedded into the rocky coastline. These massive sculptures are strategically placed to interact with the natural elements—particularly the wind and the sea. The name “Peine del Viento” literally translates to “Comb of the Wind,” which reflects how the sculptures “comb” the air as the wind blows through them. The rusted steel contrasts beautifully with the natural surroundings, and over time, the sculptures have become an integral part of the landscape.
What makes the Wind Comb particularly special is how it engages with its environment. On windy days, the sculptures amplify the sound of the wind as it whistles through them, creating a unique auditory experience. Additionally, there are holes in the ground around the sculptures that release jets of air and water when the waves crash against the rocks below, further heightening the sensory experience.
The Culinary Capital: Michelin Stars, Basque Society Dinners, and More
Beyond pintxos (pronounced “peen-chos”, the Basque take on tapas), San Sebastián boasts an impressive array of Michelin-starred restaurants, where every dish is a work of art. But there’s a hidden gem that offers an authentic taste of Basque culture and tradition: the Basque society dinners, or “sociedades gastronómicas”. These private dining clubs are more than just places to eat—they are bastions of Basque culinary heritage and social life.
Basque society dinners are held in exclusive, members-only clubs. These clubs have been an integral part of Basque culture for over a century, serving as gathering spots for locals to enjoy traditional meals, share stories, and celebrate their heritage. Originally founded by men’s associations, many of these clubs have evolved to welcome women and families, reflecting a more inclusive and modern approach.
How to Experience a Society Dinner
While these clubs are traditionally private, some sociedades gastronomicas open their doors to visitors, offering a chance to experience this unique aspect of Basque culture. I had the pleasure of experiencing a society dinner thanks to Jaime of Sanse Group.
Here’s how you can get a taste of a society dinner:
- Join a Guided Tour: Some local tour operators offer experiences that include a visit to a sociedad gastronómica. These tours often include a meal, allowing you to savor traditional dishes and learn about the history and customs of these clubs.
- Contact Local Tourism Offices: Reach out to San Sebastián’s tourism offices or local cultural organizations. They may be able to provide information on how to gain access to a sociedad gastronómica or recommend tours and experiences.
- Network with Locals: If you have connections in San Sebastián, consider reaching out to locals who might have access to a sociedad gastronomica. Personal recommendations can sometimes open doors to unique and exclusive experiences.
Final Thoughts
San Sebastián is a city that invites you to slow down and savor every moment. It’s a place where every corner offers something new to discover, whether it’s a stunning view, a hidden bar, or a piece of history. As I walked along the beach at sunset, the sky painted in hues of orange and pink, I realized that San Sebastián is more than just a destination – it’s an experience, one that stays with you long after you’ve returned home.
Thanks for reading! XOXO, Ania
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